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Thursday 10 July 2008

Flying over the Okavango delta

To perfect our visit of the Okavango area and fill in this urge of contemplating the animals from above, we book an one-hour flight over the delta. An interesting way to understand this aquatic maze which snakes through the plain. A special moment with elephants and hippopotamuses.

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Wednesday 9 July 2008

Mokoro trip in the Okavango delta

A short stop in Windhoek. Just the time to walk up the main street of the Namibian capital city, the independence avenue. A small 200000-soul city we leave in the morning to head eastwards, to Botswana. Warthogs, baboons and hornbills liven up the long straight tarmac road carved in the plain. Border crossing. The authorities stamp our passports. Our admission ticket for Botswana is validated. Namibia moves away and new adventures begin. I feel a twinge of sadness : Namibia, that was really nice!

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We drive for 400 km to reach the city of Maun, a launching pad to go to the Okavango delta. The Okavango, one of the few rivers which never reaches the sea. Instead of pouring into a water expanse, the river splits into a mass of branches and canals. A huge swamp spotted with myriad of islands where the African fauna lives in peace. Elephants, antelopes, zebras, wildebeests, giraffes and hippopotamuses graze in this green delta.
To organize the visit of the delta, we stay in a nice campsite called “Back to... the old bridge backpackers”. African rhythm illustrated by the motto “hakuna matata”. Smiles, laughs, rest and joie de vivre are the bricks that make up this haven of peace.

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The campsite works an upstream village called “Boro”. From the village, the locals offer mokoro (traditional canoe) trip on the Okavango delta. It's rather a trunk-carved gondola – the most recent ones are coated with a resin to make it more resistant. And the helmsman uses a long stick to go forward.
We leave the campsite by boat to reach the village. Serene navigation on the peaceful waters of the delta.


when we arrived, a lot of canoes float. A rotation system avoids the crush between the different villagers. We make the acquaintance of Moralé, our gondolier and guide for the next 2 days. We load the bags and get into the mokoro. We team up with 2 other boats which we're going to spend the 2 days with. Moralé firmly pushes the bank and we leave towards the tall grass. Silence. The pole shakes the water and the vegetation opens in front of us. We mark our print in the swamp.

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we put up the camp on one of these islands. We swap our wooden boat for a pair of shoes and a pair of trousers in order to venture in this bit of land abandoned to the wildlife. A hike through the African-sunkissed scrubs. Unlike the Etosha park, no waterhole was built and the animals which populate the area live in complete freedom. We come up to a group of elephants. The mother's attitude dissuades us from walking nearer. A few steps away, zebras and wildebeests live together and help at each other. The wildebeest has a very acute eyesight when the zebra shares its sense of smell to the community.

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The sun sets. We gather around the fire where our guide succinctly relates the history of Botswana and its people and starts singing the national anthem. A lively evening between laughs and cultural exchanges surrounded by some noises coming from the remotest part of the savannah.
In the morning, we take back our mokoros and make our way through the aquatic plants. Neighs rise from all around us. We come out onto a small pond where big mammals splash about. A massive head adorned with two small ears float above the water. First confrontation with a hippopotamus. Suddenly, breaking the serenity of the lake, a mass appears out of the water. One of the hippopotamuses attempts to intimidate us, it shows its annoyance. Burning desire of seeing us leaving the pond it has chosen to swim with its family.


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We arrive at the village and change the mokoros for the engine-powered boat. We extend the gliding on the Okavango marsh to go back to the campsite. End of our short but nice story in the delta.

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Thursday 26 June 2008

Flying over the Namib desert and the Skeleton Coast

What a most impressive view of a desert than the one taken from the sky?
We have trusted the Scenic Air company which shares its activities between the scenic flights over the Namib desert and private flights from a lodge to another one. This last option is definitely not our budget, nor the way we see the trip. For us, it's rather backpacking and sleeping in a tent or a dormitory. And all the money we save, we devote it to the activities. I would have prefered the hot-air balloon but the 350-euro price is really prohibitive.. Thus, we go aboard a Cessna, a small plane which can embark up to 6 people including the pilot.

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We gain altitude and leave the city of Swakopmund to fly alongside the Kuiseb river. A bit of recalcitrant life among an arid and barren area. This green strip draws an absolute demarcation between the Namib desert on our right and the Karoo on our left. The stunning perspective between two expanses with this heap of shrubs as only transition.

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We head southwest towards the dunes of Sosssusvlei. The orange- and red-hued draped ground act as a magnet. We have the nose pressed against the window. The shadows and ridges of the wind-made dunes throw us into a scenery as irrational as exquisite. And even if the view from above flattens the heights, the pleasure of admiring these dunes remains intact.

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The dunes fades into the ocean ; the marker on the way back will be this sand- and navy-coloured component. The irony of fate shows this desert, so arid, is desperately short of this water the ocean has in abundance.
The Skeleton Coast contains its secrets and dangers. The Eduard Bohlen's wreck is there as an evidence. A tangle of wooden beams the time gnawed and the sand attracted far from its ocean. The desert kept its trophy and moved it 200m away from the shore.

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Salterns and flying over the town finish this escapade into the air. The images keep on fluttering and fidgeting in our mind.

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